Posted by Cat Hubrich on Fri, Jul 01, 2011
Don't miss the Cokas Diko Outlet Warehouse Sale now thru July 4th, 2011. Open 11-4 Sunday and 10-4 on Monday. You will receive an additional 50% off all red tagged clearance items including furniture, pottery, bedding, accessories, and so much more!!!!
Located: 3499 Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa CA 95403
This is a sale you can't miss!
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Wed, Feb 23, 2011
Just a quick tip for choosing the correct size area rug for your dining table.
Lets start with the size of your dining table. You will need approximately 1 to 3' of rug around your table. Ideally, you should be able to pull your chair out and still remain on the rug. This is especially important for thicker wool rugs because you don't want your chair tilting off of the edge of the rug. conversely, with a flat weave rug, uneven ground will not be an issue so you can use a smaller rug.
Example: a 3' x 6' table would need a minimum of a 5' x 8' rug.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Fri, Feb 18, 2011
Natural fiber rugs are known for their durability and extended life. Depending of what fiber
s are used to create an area rug will dictate what benefits are received. All natural fiber rugs can be used in high, medium and low traffic areas. Listed below are your basic traffic zones.
High Traffic Area: entryways, family rooms & hallways
Medium Traffic Area: lining rooms & home office
Low Traffic Area: bedrooms & formal living rooms
Seagrass is extremely durable and recommended for entryways and high traffic zones. seagrass rugs are often made with a latex backing, which helps hold the woven fibers in place. However, seagrass is not meant to brave the elements so it is not recommended for the outside.
Sisal is an extremely strong fiber but will stain more easily than Jute or Seagrass. You may not want to use a Sisal rug in an area where you would be concerned about excessive dirt and grime. Sisal rugs work best in a medium traffic areas and can actually help keep a room cool by absorbing humidity on hot summer nights.
Jute works best in medium traffic areas and is hard-wearing and long lasting. Jute is naturally shinny, holds dyes well, resists fading, and has natural anti-static properties. The plant itself is highly sustainable and needs no fertilizers while growing.
Coir, often used in doormats, is the ONLY natural fiber that will withstand extended exposure to water. If you live in an area that get excessive rain, coir is your best bet. Coir also has a natural resistance to bacteria and fungus growth. If you are going to use a coir rug on a delicate surface, you should use a rug pad to protect your floor.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Tue, Feb 15, 2011
Many rugs have a latex backing which helps maintain the weave integrity of the rug. If an area rug backed with latex is stored for a prolonged amount of time, it may maintain a "memory" of being rolled. To remove this curl, your rug needs to be reverse rolled.
Printed Jute Rugs have a double thickness at the edge. You will need to bend the edge against the curl, in the center of the double thickness, the full length of the rug. After bending, roll the rug snugly against the curl for 1/2 its length. Letting the rug remain in this position for approximately 15 minutes should flatten the edges.
Bordered Sisal/Seagrass Rugs are backed with latex plus they have foam padding under the border. Follow the same directions as above for the Printed Jute, reverse rolling your rug against the curl for 1/2 its length.
Wool Rugs (canvas backed) use latex, under the canvas, to hold the weave in place. They are not subject to as much "memory" curl as the rugs listed above but if a curl exists, simply follow the previous directions. This same process can be followed with cotton rugs also.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Sun, Feb 13, 2011
The less often you clean your down pillow insert, the longer it will last. Washing them approximately once a year should keep them fresh.
Always keep your down insert covered with a slip cover or sham. This will keep dust, dirt and body oils away from the insert at all times.
If you have allergies, you can add an extra layer of protection by buying a pillow cover. This serves as a buffer between your insert and your sham.
Launder or dry clean your Villa Pillow sham as directed. Never wash the sham and the pillow together. Always follow the manufacturer's care label for your sham. If no care label is found, always dry clean.
Most down pillows can be washed in cold water with a mild detergent or down wash, on a gentle cycle. Try to place an even number of pillows in your washer to avoid an uneven load.
After the wash cycle has completed, squeeze any excess water from your pillows. Do not be alarmed if your pillow's wet feathers smell stronger. That is normal and the odor will fade after you have dried them.
Tumble dry on the lowest setting and place 1-2 clean tennis balls in the dryer with your down items. This will help them retain their bounce and move the fill around as it drys. You may have to run the dryer cycle 1-2 times until they are fully dry. After each cycle, shake your pillows and break up any feather clump, if necessary.
Store your clean unused down pillows in a dry, well-ventilated area to avoid mildew.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Fri, Feb 11, 2011
We have been getting a lot of questions lately on how to care for Railroad Tie Furniture. So, lets start with a few facts.
Railroad ties are rectangular pieces of wood originally used as the base for railroad tracks. Having such an important role in the railroad industry, these pieces of wood are, by design, extremely sturdy.
For all hardwood furniture, it is important to dust regularly with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. We do not recommend wood oil treatments, Pledge, or other polishes with strong chemical compounds. Never use a damp cloth and keep moisture away from your furniture as any water-to-wood contact may leave permanent watermark damage. If spills occur, blot area immediately and do not rub. With that said, Railroad Tie Furniture is a different breed of hardwood all together. Intrinsically rustic, blemishes and scars are what makes this type of furniture so appealing. Wear and tear on the surface of one of these tables only adds to its rustic charm.
Avoid exposure to direct sunlight and extreme heat for extended periods of time. Railroad ties were produced to withstand the elements but any finished furniture product will crack and dry if not cared for properly.
We recommend only cleaning products made of organic contents. Do not use polishes that create build-up or those with petroleum-based chemicals. Always apply polish first to a clean soft lint-free cloth and then onto the furniture surface.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Wed, Feb 09, 2011
Question: How are the Recycled Teak Furniture Collection pieces sealed and finished?
The wood that our Recycled Teak Furniture Collection is made from is reclaimed wood sourced from 100 year old buildings and ships. A lacquer and sealer is applied to comply with lead free regulations. This eliminates any possibility of residual lead that may have been on the old wood. Lastly, a wax finish is applied to all of these teak pieces. The wax is an important last step and will greatly extend the life of your reclaimed furniture piece. All these applications are non-toxic and without excess chemicals.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Tue, Feb 08, 2011
Here are 8 ways to separate your space.
1. A good functional look is an open bookcase, or several side by side. Items
are displayed and accessible from both sides. This look works especially well in rooms with high ceilings and allows light to pass through the space.
2. Attaching louvered doors with hinges creates a functional room divider. This screen can be painted numerous colors or even adorned with family photos, collectibles or decorative iron pieces.
4. Similar to louvered doors, attach several vintage doors together with hinges. By choosing doors with glass panels in them, your space will remain bright and airy.
5. Using a screen made from reclaimed wood serves the purpose all on its own. This Recycled Teak Screen is made from
reclaimed teak sourced from old buildings and ships. This is not only functional but a one-of-a-kind art piece, made from wood rich with history.
6. Hanging curtains from the ceiling can also separate your space and add interest to your room. Using sheers attached to a curtain rod will allow light to filter through and your space can be opened up easily.
7. Take into account your overall furniture placement. Sectioning off a seating area with a high back couch and sofa table behind will give purpose to one area while allowing another area separation.
8. Any piece of furniture that is finished all the way around could be a potential divider. Quality made furniture will have character and look good from all views. Why not hang a painting on the back side of your bookcase, above a console table? You are now using your bookcase all the way around.
*I would love to add to this list so if you have any additional divider ideas, please feel free to comment.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Sun, Feb 06, 2011
I can't stop talking about reclaimed furniture. In an age of overuse and ever increasing waste, the thought of re-purposing wood for new products is extremely appealing. Wood with such history and richness not only saves us from ourselves but looks incredible. Here are 3 reclaimed wood furniture collections to inspire and transform your space.
Railroad Tie Collection: 
Who doesn't appreciate this meaty collection? Pieces are created from old railroad ties and have a rustic, minimalistic quality. Each piece has weight and detail that can be only earned from a past of function and purpose. This line is kept simple in order to maintain the woods rich texture.
Reclaimed Oak Collection: This collection is using reclaimed wood from from 100 year old wood sourced from old buildings and ships. These pieces maintain the charm and character of rustic wood but are more refined in appearance. Pounded iron accents add to its industrial old-world look.
Recycled Teak Collection: By far, this is the most unique of the three collections. Each piece is truly an original and will show the scars and makeup of a very full and fruitful past. The thought of how this wood has been transformed is why this line remains my favorite. By adding just one of these pieces to a room you will transform the entire space. Not everyone will love its rustic look but you can't help but appreciate the journey this wood has taken. Also sourced from old buildings and ships, every stick of wood is re-worked and masterfully crafted into something entirely new.
Posted by Cat Hubrich on Thu, Feb 03, 2011
Your shade can make or break your table lamp. Here are a few shade definitions to help you with your selection.
Drum Shade: Know also as a Cylinder or Barrel Shade. This shade has the same measurements at the top and the bottom.
Shallow Drum: This is a Cylinder Shade that is not as high as a Standard Drum.
Bell Shade: Features a dramatic curve resembling a bell. Narrow top fans out to the base.
Empire Shade: Gradual difference between the smaller top measurement and the bottom measurement. Features a more dramatic arch than a bell shade.
Rectangular Shade: This shade is in the shape of a rectangle on both the top and bottom. Its best view is on the longer side.
Rectangular Bell Shade: Mix between a Rectangular Shade and Bell Shade.
Square Shade: Similar to a Rectangle Shade. Has 4 distinct, flat , equal distant sides.
Tapered Drum: Cylinder Shade with a slightly smaller top diameter.
Lamp shades have a multitude of variations and are not limited to the shapes above. Likewise, the materials lamp shades are made of vary greatly. You will be amazed of the selection of
lamps you will find these days, each one a potential piece of art to place on your furniture.